X-ray-thin crusts have judicious coatings of cheese — robiola, goat cheese, ricotta, sheep cheese — and sparing but flavorful toppings like broccoli rabe, black truffle pâté and soppressata. The tomato and mozzarella pie is dotted with cherry tomato halves and fresh basil. One pizza caveat: skip the watermelon.

As long as people are not confused by the name, Accademia may well succeed in a spot where others have failed. It is not just a wine bar, though it has one on street level with 500 reasonably priced wines. There is also a subterranean dining room with much to admire.

The pleasures include perfectly roasted red and yellow peppers and thin, delicately twisted Ligurian gnocchi in pesto with slivers of haricots verts. Prosciutto and Parmesan fritters are greaseless treats, delicious once they’ve cooled.

The restaurant appears determined to capture all current and past trends in Italian menus: food served raw, barely cooked and fully cooked; carpaccio, tartare and crudo; salumi and cheese; panini and crustless tramezzini; and the traditional antipasti, primi and secondi.

Can service be called aggressively nice? Water glasses were continually checked. The waiter was solicitous without telling me his name, putting a hand on my back or giving me his card.

Main dishes are $21 to $45, pastas generally are in the high teens, and pizzas are $14 to $18. And wonder of wonders, you can be heard without shouting. MARIAN BURROS